Arrived today in Bucharest not knowing really what to expect. Went to meet Tim Schaffter (UNICEF Romania Office) at the UNICEF centre. I immediately noticed how warm the atmosphere was. It is a real eye opener to hear all the facts. Actually a few too many facts to take on board for the first time, about the nature of the orphanage crisis in Romania that has come about as a result of the appalling legislation of Ceaucescu. My brain had to make a lateral transition to take on board this kind of information about the orphanages and homes for children. It seems to me a complete black hole of infrastructure.
I am at a loss to understand how this situation can still be continuing. Listening to Smaranda Popa (Child Protection Officer), I felt a strong, positive energy for change. But I also felt myself feeling impatient, 'Why is this allowed to continue?' I hope the next two days will reveal to me exactly what the problems are.
Saturday 15 January
Today we started by going to an institution for boys. It was a very basic breeze block building. The boys had all this energy about them, that wasn't used and wasn't focused. Unless I read it wrong, they really wanted contact, interaction and affection. Although it seemed that they were given as much time and affection [by the staff] as was humanly possible. But the fabric of the building was terrible. Why couldn't they have books or posters?
I felt full of admiration for the people who keep these places going and are giving their lives to these children. I carry away from today the light in the eyes of the children, and the frustration that I felt, that anyone would feel, at seeing the deeply poor conditions that they are in. There is so much untapped human vitality that is held in suspension.
The most upsetting visit was to go to the 'Babes' hospital where children were infected with HIV. The doctor seemed a man who is unquestionably committed to fighting a virus. AIDS is a disaster clearly, and in other parts of the world, I think, we all put it aside. When you see the faces of the children already marked by physiological complications, it is distressing.
The most uplifting thing today was the Parada street theatre foundation. These children have been abandoned by their parents and have taken to living on the streets. Miloud Oukili from Algeria has come here and teaches them theatre skills, juggling, etc. Theatre, entertainment, physical prowess of a kind had energised these children into another way of life. It's an amazing achievement and very humbling to see.
We need to keep sustaining the things we've seen, and to improve places like the boys' home this morning. The sort of wealth that's running around in the West - it wouldn't cost that much, would it? It does seem possible to make a difference with funds that could easily be raised.
I know it's an obvious conclusion to draw - 'Oh how lucky you are' - but it is a thought that keeps surfacing, how much I, you, we take our lives for granted.
Sunday 16 January
We started the day with the centre for single mothers, 'Little Prince', which I liked enormously. I thought it was beautifully run and administered, and the leader and her team were fantastic people, quietly committed. The mothers were shown affection - not only efficiency, but affection and support.
Afterwards, negotiating icy pavements on the way to a home for children with HIV. When you see what is being achieved you realise it's not anything momentous, it is day-to-day steady application and hard work. In this family-style home, they tried to avoid anything black, so they had blue boards instead of blackboards. They had wonderfully coloured bright yellow desks, coloured chairs. Their initiative is extraordinary. My overall feeling is that UNICEF must keep supporting. It is brilliant what is going on.
The weekend is over. I'm feeling very tired but so glad to have come on this
trip - for all the obvious reasons, to see how UNICEF functions. But also to
get a sense of another country, its history. I want to come back. They said
'Oh! You'll never come back here' - which of course provoked me to think 'Oh
yes I will.'
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© EL STEPHO
Added to the RF Reading Room on November 28, 2000
EL STEPHO